Rione Project

The word Trastevere itself means Trans Tiber or “across the river.” Its very identity comes from it being separate from the city center. It’s the countryside, where real Romans can afford to live and breathe, and the true diversity of Rome shines through. Here the street grid transforms into a labyrinth and reason no longer applies. Here menus suddenly are two Euros cheaper than the tourist price for a better plate of lasagna. Here is a refuge for artisans, musicians, even Chigis apparently when they elect to entertain Popes and dignitaries in their pleasure palace.

History
In ancient times, the bank along the Tiber River was home to the Etruscans. It was also nearby where Jewish and Syrian communities established their centers of worship. In the 13th century, this area was incorporated into the city and became the 13th rione, and in 1642 it was integrated into the city’s defenses as portions of the Aurelian wall were joined with those of the Vatican.

Atmosphere: A countryside village, where the true Romans still reside. Winding alleyways with laundry hanging on lines. The people still retain their fierce independence and pride. A cultural refuge for artisans and musicians. Some semblance of catering to tourists who are brave enough to venture from the historic center but much more true to the city’s permanent inhabitants.

Our Route:

1. Crossing Ponte Garibaldi
2. Piazza Gioacchino Belli: poet known for satirical sonnets and popular verses in the 18th & 19th centuries.
3. St. Crisogono: Competition of the Papal Nephews to refurbish existing churches→ Borghese
4. Ospedale S. Maria e S. Gallicano: Established in the 18th century to deal with the cities contagious and lethal skin diseases like leprosy.
5. Circulo S. Pietro: Cucina Economia: Community di Sant’Egidio
6. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere Home to 12th century mosaics, the first church dedicated to the Virgin in Rome.
7. Porta Settimana & Via S. Dorotea: Villa Farnesina, John Cabot University: Porta Settimana was one of the 3 gateways in theAurelian walls on this side of the river. This section of the wall, no trace of which remains, created a triangle with the top of theGianocolo hill and included the whole of Trastevere. This portal, which now connects the some of the most important roads in the area, was originally used by the pilgrims that arrived in Rome through the Trastevere port. They would walk through this previously decedent arch toward St. Peter's. It is also said that Raphel's love "the fornisina" once lived in a house at number 20 Via S. Dorotea near where the "Romulus restaurant" is today. This restaurant was also a favorite hang out of the poet Trilussa.
   
   

• Passeggiata di Gianicolo: not technically one of Rome’s 7 hills, served by bus 115 to a hilltop park with panoramic views of the city and of the backside of the Vatican. Also houses the Spanish Academy

8. Piazza Trilussa
Trilussa was Carlo Alberto Salustri's pen named. He was a Roman born poet that received little to no education but was a natural artist with his words. Trilussa's fame grew in the 1920s and 1930s, though he was not a part of any literary circle, preferring to be in the streets and taverns, which were the source of his inspiration. His poetry features the petite-bourgeoisie of Rome: the housewife, the store clerk, the servant, but also contain strong satirical denounces against
governments and the vices of rich people. Some of the sonnets are Aesop-like moralistic fables. Trilussa's own sketches and drawings were featured alongside his poetry.

My Experience in Trastevere

Trastevere is a beautiful place but Trastevere is the most confusing place in Rome. I get lost on each and every winding road that leads to another piazza or hidden restaurant. There were times when I would stumble upon an incredible little restaurant and then never be able to bring anyone back, because I had no idea how I got there.

Feeling like the 'outsider' was never so apparent then when wondering around the cobblestones in Trastevere. I was lost, nervous and completely scared that I would never get home again. After a few hours and some "almost-crying" moments I had returned to my apartment exhausted and overwhelmed. As tiring as that day was I feel in love with the quaint little rione.

I never was able to visit the hill that over looks the Rome, but I do plan on adding that to the list of things to do with my dad when he arrives next week. I can't wait to show him the restaurants I found there and simply walk around and take photos. Its the perfect place to wonder around on a sunny afternoon.